Coco BTJ-9000

I thought he meant an integrated pre-power amp with MM phono also.

I imagine that must be about 5-6 muffins?

This. A Ducati 916 Foggy Rep. At least.

Neither will a Ducati.
Service interval is too frequent to reach speeds over 30mph.

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Lol, true!

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Blah blah blah, for the older belt drive superbikes (888 up to 1098, iirc) std oil service once a year and belts every other year unless you’re too rich and own a Desmosedici which needs everything doing every week if you actually ride it rather than just polish it. To be fair, three of the four people I know who actually own one do ride them, and two of them have learned how to service them themselves.

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Mate had a 916, rattled itself apart on a regular basis.
Ducati are about looks, though the new ones are uglier than mowlems piles.

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Power supply wired. Just the mains inlet, switch and connector to signal chassis to do.

Signal chassis is done bar a couple of caps on order and wiring the PSU connector.

Oh, and tidying up the wiring with some cable ties.

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When you say switch Peter, do you mean one of those ‘Igor, throw the switch’ jobbies? Anything else would seem a letdown…

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I see you are elevating the heater supplies, the bypass cap has quite a disturbingly large influence on the sound in my experience.
I wanted to believe it was of no consequence and therefore inaudible, but I was wrong.
Looks like the blue touch paper moment isn’t far away now…

Interesting I’m just using a standard Elna there. Any recommendations?

Yes, it will be done very soon, I finished the PSU last night, after the photo above was taken, so just the umbilical to make, wiring of the connector and the screen bypass caps when they arrive.

Is this if the elevation is taken via a potential divider off the HT Rail? By what mechanism do you suppose it occurs? AC return being compromised?

Pete, Why does the filament supply need to be elevated in this design? There aren’t any cathodes raised particularly high are there?

They’re not, but they’re still above ground, the second stage cathode will be at ~8V so the parasitic diode is present if grounding the heater.

For the first stage, possibly less of an issue as the cathode will sit below the average heater voltage. Not sure that helps though, as part of the heater will be below it.

Still, it can’t hurt and is best practice.

Heaters are DC anyway.

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Yes something more expensive.:yum:

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Years ago I tried elevated heaters and didn’t like the impact on the sound, so I stopped using them wherever possible. Whilst developing the Model 3 riaa I revisited the issue for the dc heater supply to the D3a and EC8010 I am using try to deal with the parasitic diode effect Pete mentioned. With the voltage divider taken from the ht I heard the same degradation I disliked years ago, but this time I tried swapping the bypass cap and could hear each type having an effect. I ended up keeping the elevated heaters with a film cap as the bypass on the voltage divider.
I don’t have a real reason as to why, but I suspect it is due to the effect on the ac shunt to earth due to noise on the heater supply. The D3a and EC8010 do like to work out to crazy uhf so they may well be more susceptible to vhf hash on the supply lines than most… but I couldn’t say for certain what the technical reason is.

Thanks for that. I’ll experiment here, and also try grounding the heaters.

Caps have arrived. Just need to fit them and finish the umbilical (one end is done).

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Umbilical made, PSU tested and good.

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Excuse my ignorance but what is the garden hose for ? :stuck_out_tongue:

Transporting water to plants, duh.

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water cooled valve amp?