I’m not a fan of button down collars and prefer cutaways myself, but the single most important thing to me is the overall fit of a shirt; don’t like excess material particularly around the waist and baggy arms, but don’t like to see shirts that are obviously too tight either.
Soup meet keyboard
So rong it’s rite.
I think I need a new suit. @Wayward (and anyone else) …What’s the best balance of value, style and quality? I.e. paying a bit more if it’s a worthwhile investment is fine, but also not paying over the odds for a brand name etc…
One suit to rule them all. The few work occasions I need to suit up but also events, weddings
What type of cardboard for the three pointed breast pocket hankey.
My pocket squares tend to look like a new species of paisley creature has emerged from the primordial soup, crawled up into my pocket, and promptly died.
One suit to rule them all…
The problem here for you is economy of scale and also how the suit business has changed. High Street brands who shift large numbers and give value for money are either really dull (M&S etc) or fashion forward (Reiss, Ted Baker etc). Neither type make a suit to rule them all.
A high fashion company will have a smaller suit business, so their prices will be naturally higher and then they add an increment on top because of who they are.
If I was to buy a suit off the peg I would probably go for Zegna. They have a ladder to climb pricewise ( The top line is beautiful), they produce the suits themselves, so less production costs and they aren’t frumpy because they are a proper fashion house too and have a design element.
What they don’t do is solid, dependable (strong and stable?) Britishness ( no one wants it anymore, or is it that it no longer exists?). All of their suits will be made of fine worsteds and will get knackered if you wear them hard. You really need bespoke
Thanks very helpful
I have no idea how much a bespoke suit would cost? I’m not against investing in something quality that will last. It is unlikely to get worn hard- I rarely have cause to wear a suit. Occasional wedding or rare work event really
If you were to have multiple suits what would the minimum be- a work one and a more dress/semi-formal one? What would the style differences be?
Agree with Zegna, I also like Aquascutum too. But I’ll qualify that by saying you have to find a company that makes a suit that fits you well rather than being loyal to a brand or label (unless you want and can afford bespoke).
Not sure there is a one suit for all. Perhaps one for formal occasions and one for nights out.
A bespoke suit in Savile Row currently runs at around 5k, although tailorscum will do it for cash for less. There are lower priced bespoke suits but honestly you really do get what you pay for. Anyone who is any good works on Savile Row. You could spend 1500 quid on an utter bastard.
As far as multiple suits go, I would start at one good one if you aren’t wearing it much and then perhaps get another in a year’s time and build from there. Grey is perhaps more daytime and navy may work better for both but this is very much a generalisation as it depends on your skin tone, hair, personal style, etc, etc. Concentrate on fit, silhouette and quality, rather than fancy cloth and pocket details, coloured buttonholes and the like.
I can’t remember where we got to with the rest of it but a decent pair of shoes and shirt will go a long way to making you look and feel good too.
Reminds me of a time in the 60’s when I went to a Tailor in Wandsworth to have a Regency jacket made (don’t ask). He asked me to put a suit jacket on to judge my size, it fitted perfectly and said “do you know who this suit is for” and informed me it was Peter Sellers. He said he was making 5 suits for him and
when I asked him why would Peter Sellers choose him to make the suits he told me they were for Savile Row.
my grandfather was a tailor- his workshop was at home, but he was always making stuff for places on Savile Row.
His brother was a furrier, not very PC these days, but as a child I recall some astonishing creations - he was clearly highly skilled and clearly charged alot of money for his work, as when fur products became very un-PC he retired a very wealthy man.
Used to get mine from Gieves & Hawkes, off the peg and then tailored rather than bespoke.
The bog standard charcoal was a very tough suit and would last about 2 years without losing shape.If buying like this I’d recommend getting 2x pairs of trousers as they wear out much faster than the jacket.
Tailored sounds like a good compromise? Is it just a case of getting the best possible fit off the peg and then getting that tailored, or is there anything else you need to keep in mind- features of off the peg suits that make it difficult to tailor for e.g.?
I got a (light blue) shirt that fitted me really well from Hackett in the end. Shoes I had already, and I got a good quality black belt to match. Went with the textured navy tie suggested.
Current suit is grey- Ben Sherman I think actually this one
Looks quite similar (to me) to the Zegna ones here?
With a navy suit would you still wear black belt and shoes?
Yes. Brown shoes with a blue suit means you are colour blind or otherwise you are Roberto Martinez…
what about braces or suspenders as yanks call them.
Where can I buy a Seville Row shell suit?