After my last victorian house and doing the basement, I don’t think that will be enough. I would go for as much insulation as you can get in the space, it’s not expensive and will save you a lot on the heating bills in winter.
If you start going up to 4 and 6 inch it starts to add up per sheet
Shit ! Sound the fanfare !!! I’m about to agree with Bob
I used pretty much what you are planning on my brewhouse. In the mild Southern winters it is insufficient. I find the prospect of tearing it down and redoing it inconceivable, so I have resigned myself to greater heating bills.
Easiest would be to wedge additional insulation into the stud wall spaces. That way you don’t lose any more floorspace. I’m assuming, of course, that Paul’s planning to plant the Kingspan onto the face of the studding.
We shouldn’t lose sight of the fact that he’s not in a shed. There’s what looks like a substantial thickness of stone too.
I had a substantial thickness of brick and it was bloody freezing if you didn’t have lots of insulation.
Are there any ‘stray’ sheep on the island that you could use?
Actually sheeps wool would be ideal, but a bit smelly.
Think I’d be tempted to stick another 50mm in the stud wall if possible
Top tip use a jigsaw to cut kingspan if it’s 75mm or less
The Fonzy of Funzie dances naked in -15. Any kind of insulation is the lap of luxury and besides there has to be enough room to jam the Wiccan dolls as tradition dictates.
I would suggest that the winters here are close to as mild as yours. Only 2 days of frost last winter. The oceanic, temperate maritime climate ensures that the mean winter temperature rarely gets below 4 deg C.
Yes, 3’ thick stone walls, which I’ve virtually draughtproofed.
Heating will be via a 9 kW multi fuel stove which will be burning peat. The license for cutting peat is £7 per annum, so apart from a bit of hard graft in the summer, heating it will be virtually free. The dehumidifier I’m putting in there will cost more to run in electricity charges.
Thanks for all the advice and I really have carefully considered it all, but my time window is very small to take advantage of a second pair of hands. Lou couldn’t possibly help me with fitting the roof plasterboard/insulation and it is almost impossible for one person to do it. Unfortunately, to get more insulation at this point would take at least a week, which I don’t have.
As I said earlier, I’m more concerned about the acoustical properties of the walls than the thermal properties.
When I was a kid we would holiday in West Cork. The done thing was to cut turf and stack it to dry on the seaward side of the cottage for use in the winter. Bloody good insulation too if you cut enough. I don’t recall ever being cold indoors there.
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In which case, why are you in any way surprised at the detailed responses covering the potential thermal issues
It’s amazing, the interwebs innit?
West Cork was never cold, just bloody wet most of the time. Though, of course, I only remember the sunny days - it’s my sister who keeps reminding me about the rain!
Back corner studding finished and the last long wall
All walls now have the stud work complete and ready for insulated plasterboard, although the roof is getting done first between the rafters, leaving them partly exposed (which is going to be a bit of a pain as there are no parallel lines whatsoever!
Decent progress in a week, hope to have all plasterboard finished next week and then on to the floor.
Had to do similar in Jersey on an old barn ceiling
Had to make a cardboard template for each gap,fill it with rockwall,baton it in 2x1",then put 6mm mdf recessed between the beams,then paint it.
Took ages,but looked really good with the beams exposed.
That’s what I’m after. I’m also hoping that the exposed beams will help with sonic reflections.
That breaker really ties the room together