Thought I may as well give it a go, then, as I’d previously just used the crappy paper protractor that came with the deck, which is all abit trial’n’error, and this is a MUCH nicer bit of kit - all solid metal, perspex and beautifully finished details…
And that’s how another “Sodders is a clueless cunt” anecdote is born… This thing is good - MUCH much better than the usual diagram-on-a-stick that I’d used previously, and now my Cadenza is sitting about 2mm further back in the headshell, a mite squarer too, and tracking a WHOLE lot better…
After re-adjusting VTA and tracking weight the sonic difference is serious - significantly improved resolution: whole-new-phono-stage better.
Retails at £95 (I don’t sell 'em) and given how well made it is and the fact it’ll work on any pivot arm from 8-12", not just Pro-ject ones, it seems money well spent.
But yeah, another public egg-in-face job, then, but what the hell - the music sounds better, I’ll take that.
No, me neither, to an extent. Each one is a compromise and you have to decide which of those compromises are important to you, although the differences are small.
I’ve never owned a fancy Feickert (or other) protractor and always just printed free stuff. I’m satisfied with the results that they produce.
Given what you’ve spent on kit, it might be at least worth borrowing one to check on setup, though I guess you’re more experienced and less hamfisted than me! I’m bricking it every time I go near a cartridge - time doesn’t seem to lessen this.
I guess I could use one to check set up, but I have no reason to suspect that Vinyl Engine, Conrad’s free stuff etc. isn’t accurate.
I’m quite happy setting up cartridges with crappy paper tools and an £8.99 eBay vtf scale. When the system is running (which it isn’t atm) I probably change a cartridge every few days. I can’t help it
When I was beholden to such fripperies as arm geometry, I found the AN arm/Io to be much better set up on Stevenson geometry. But then I think that’s what they recommend for Rega mounts.*
*I could be spouting my usual bollocks here.
These jigs are excellent for setting up and that one looks like a bargain compared to the Dr. Feickert.
I borrowed @spiders Dr. fuckit earlier in the week, and it’s really rather good. I had previously used paper/plastic things printed off the tinternet and been fairly happy…
Borrowed a Dr F. My fixed arm is Stevenson’s and the kit shows the factory recomendrd cart distance works… it was on the nail.
For the peace of mind it was worth using the kit. Stops you wondering if your guess is right it now.
I could never get on with paper as I don’t have a printer that works!
The problem with some paper templates is ‘aiming’ for the center of the bearing. The GM MKII arm has a handy dimple in the center on the top of the bearing pillar - I like this, is feels like my Dr. fuckit is actually fucking it.