DIY Audio General - stuff you're making, tips, advice sought, etc

Always moist.

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Qts will probably change as they run in.

The Qms will come down, I gather but the Qes will not change?
Which is the main parameter that is knocking everything else out. The Mechanical parameters seem pretty consistant its just the Qes.

Those sort of surrounds take years to wear in.

Push them in and out a bit and measure it again :slight_smile: made a difference on the drivers I was messing with.

Busy afternoon!

New front baffles from lovely 21mm Birch Ply (off eBay, cheaper to order, cut to size from Germany than it was at my local Travis Perkins…)
Driver rebating was much better on the second one, very happy!


Build by Robert Seymour, on Flickr

Showing the original baffle now cut out.

Build by Robert Seymour, on Flickr


Supravox 165-2000 by Robert Seymour, on Flickr

And in the room


Supravox 165-2000 by Robert Seymour, on Flickr

Little and Large!


Little and Large by Robert Seymour, on Flickr

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Got a link?

Here, they cut to size which is handy for me as I don’t have a circular saw or the space to cut up full size panels.
The quality is excellent too, no voids in the plywood too.

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Up to 30mm thick as well, nice

I have assembled my new Vibration platform and I am pleased with the result. Made from 400 x 300 x 20mm thk. Acrylic. Footers are Newport Corporation mini footers with adaptors (4off). It looks nice installed under my t/t and I think it sounds better but it is hard to do an A/B test. I will try to send piccies.

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t looks like my CD player needs a new laser assembly as it has been skipping on different CD’s with increasing regularity - is this something I could attempt myself or is it best to leave to a professional. Any suggestions as to a good repair company would be greatly appreciated :+1:

It’s a Canor Audio CD2 VR+ and uses a Philips CD drive - model L1210/65

Cheers

Probably easy enough to do yourself.
Depending on price, may be easier to replace the whole drive, but laser is usually a plug in, and a couple of screws.

I had a look on ebay and there was a L1210/65 unit in the US for about £30 plus postage and duties - I presume this is just the laser unit.

I think I’ll need to have a look under the covers to see if I would be confident enought ot fuck it up by myself :grinning:

I’ve just finished populating the tagboard for the valve regulated psu I’m building (for a customer, not for me). These are the components for the power supply itself. The valves will be round the other side (not quite so tidy as that’s where all the cross-connects are). There will be some off-board bits and pieces too, mostly solid-state DC supplies for the valve heaters.

VB

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Thanks Gregg :+1:

I take it the L1210/65 Canor refer to is the whole drive unit and VAM 1202/12 is the laser unit only - sorry for my ignorance on this.

Lovely and neat Graeme, thats some posh Jantzen and AN caps…

It would have been even pricier if we’d gone for ClarityCap MR’s all the way through, but my customer did decide to draw the line somewhere. And to be fair four of the Jantzens are ‘just’ bypassing electrolytics.

VB

Not exactly HiFi but the pull cord switch in my bathroom is SNAFU. I am confident to wire it up OK but I’ve seen 5A, 6A and 10A.
Which is better/necessary ?

The one that best matches your bathroom decor.

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