DIY Audio General - stuff you're making, tips, advice sought, etc

We had a great deal of anodised stuff at work and if we cared about the finish we used to send scratched items back to a local plater who would strip it back to bare metal and re-finish it for us. It tended to be inexpensive as black was far and away the commonest colour and he’d just slip it in with next big batch he was doing for someone else. We sometimes had to wait a week or two though.

But to be honest, we hardly ever did care. We just lived with the scratches.

There are touch-up pens for anodising. Here’s one

but there are others too.

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Thanks, I’ll have a look - I now have a better idea of what to search for.

Quick extra question about my CD player. It uses a 2 pin power lead, the 2 pin version of the more common 3 pin ‘kettle lead’. I have loads of the latter and none of the former, so…

Am I right in thinking that the third (top) pin is earth? If so, is there any reason why I shouldn’t simply use a three pin (female) lead into the 2 pin (male) socket on the CDP?

Cheers.

Will it fit? Needs to be snug and tight with pins all the way into the sockets. If not, fire or explosion is likely.

Yes, physically it’s a perfect fit, the difference being this:

If the unit has a double-insulated symbol (square box-in-box), then you can use any C15 type “kettle” lead with it.

Looks like it should be fine to use the 3-pin lead into a 2-pin appliance - but NOT vice-versa.

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Thanks. Yes, it has the double insulated symbol on the rear panel (I suppose if it weren’t, it’d have a three pin socket).

Good, that saves me having to acquire yet another lead. I have too many wires in my life - my ‘collection’ is becoming a source of concern.

I see your point.

In this case though, I can’t think of a way that combination would fit.

The again, I am the man who cut the mains cable off an old washing machine while it was still plugged into a live mains socket. the scissors ended up with two huge chunks burned out of the blades.

I was unscathed. Lucky bugger.

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Exactly the point. It stops you using a lead which doesn’t have an earth wire on a device which needs to be earthed for safety reasons.

Indeed - in an unbodged unit. Bodged: anything’s possible.

Cyrus seem to use the two pin ones,or they used to

Those of you who spotted my relatively recent posts on the ‘Shiny new secondhand things’ forum will know that I’m in the process of trying to work out the correct way to wire a 6 pin XLR on the lead from an MF X-T100 to its accompanying external PSU. On the basis that the simplest way to acquire this info is to get it from another X-T100 owner, I posted on the Maverick Hifi forum to see if anyone could help. This didn’t reveal any other owners of the amp, but did result in some useful info from a couple of the more technically minded members there. Unfortunately, the trail has gone a bit cold, so I wonder if anyone here might be kind enough to read the thread I started and let me know if it contains enough info to identify the correct way to wire the XLR. Thus far, it appears that the wiring to four of the six pins has been identified, so I’m almost there…

All should (hopefully) become clear from this:

If you can help complete the puzzle, I’d be very grateful.

Cheers

My ANK DAC is a noisy bastard - not sonically, but RFI/EMI, so much so that I lashed-up some grounded steel+neoprene+brass isolation platforms to reduce the pickup by kit above and below it in the rack. Before that, you could hear music playing from the pre when the power amps weren’t switched on! The platforms helped enormously.

But that’s not the story. Like a dog returning to its vomit, this compelled me to go back and look again at mains filtering for the DAC. What’s spewing onto the airwaves is also getting piped along connected wiring. Some experimentation with additional off-the-shelf modular filters only made the problems (and subjective SQ) worse…

I tried the thing with no filtering at-all, just my screened mains cables, and that changed the presentation - both for better and for worse…

Most commercial passive mains filters mix inductors with capacitative shunts across L-N and across L-E and N-E. The first should cancel common-mode noise, the second offers a path to Earth for HF interference. Both have their issues, but the latter especially can simply make it easier for strong noise sigals to proliferate throughout a system. It’s an engineering solution that looks at a problem in isolation, and ignores wider issues - if you’d got one noisy machine in a factory fifty years ago that was upsetting your brand-new fax machine: sorted. Now, not so much.

What industrial filters don’t use much of is inductance, at best you get a very low L common-mode transformer, because copper wire is expensive plus they take-up a fair bit of space. There are also potential issues with current-generated heat as inductance values rise, especially with low-CSA wire windings. You also pretty much never see any differential chokes included.

With such a noisy bit of kit as the ANK DAC, I decided to try making a standalone filter that would combine a DC blocker with multi-stage inductive filtering - and so ordered a bunch of cheap 50uH common-mode chokes from thiefBay.

Tie two legs of these together and you have a differential mode choke - keeps the part count low! The result of hastily lashing these onto a bit of perfboard is this thing of Great Beauty :heart_eyes:

I’d agree that the enclosure may not be fully production-ready…

The caps and diodes in the middle are just to block DC offset. LNE all have a differential choke on input; LN then have one common-mode before the DC block and two after. E has a second differential choke just to get numbers up. This config also balances impedence at 0.15R at 120Hz for each leg, something which climbs smoothly with frequency, as you’d hope.

What matters (and why I’m bothering to post to universal indifference), is that it works absolutely brilliantly at a subjective level - the system sounds better in all ways, resolution is improved, but most importantly treble brightness and glare is significantly reduced.

I didn’t really expect this, I’ve got a selection of pretty reliable and effective mains filters already, but for this pernickety DAC, this is just what was needed, and the result is a fair bit better than anticipated.

Just the small matter of it being deadly to take care of at some point…

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R4 looks to be quite a chunky component.

These are quite cheap

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:joy:

Your consultancy cheque is in the post :laughing:

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Don’t forget to fill the case with cat litter and chopped up scrap copper pipe to attain the four figure sum this should attract.

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Non-magnetic ftw.

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