Does this look right?
With this you can just run bolts down into the threaded adapter. There’s 5mm of horn below the plate, to ensure a good connection. Is that how it’s meant to work?
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Just make the base flat…
Not sure why you want the lip.
Oh ok, that’s easier then
You definitely don’t IMO
From what Pete had messaged me I thought that there was something about having enough to ensure that the horn seats correctly on the driver, but I’ve removed it now.
??? Not sure what I said to make you think that. It will seat fine on a flat base. In reality, you’re supposed to use a gasket.
If you want some TPU to try printing one (1 layer @ 0.2mm) I can give you some.
How is it possible that a person can be simultaneously smart enough to address themselves to 3D modelling software whose every concept is beyond me, and yet make such a fucking meal out of joining two flat surfaces together?
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If it’s not complicated, make it so - every accountant’s motto. Otherwise you’d realise it’s basically just a mundane admin task and they’re not worth the money they ask. 
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I’ll pass your thoughts on to Sam… 
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Lol it was more around how long the thread was and exactly where is was positioned, but there we go
I’m still confused. In Ritchie’s system they’re currently mounted on a flat flange, so 
Simple is best. Anyway…
Flat is the way to go.
I make the aluminium adapter rings on my
Imperial lead screw Southbend lathe.
I can supply the adapter hole PCD, if that helps. Edit: saw Coco already supplied
Holes for self tappers would be fine.
It’s not like they are heavy.
As you go up in size and weight, threaded bar and nuts ala JBL would be better.
P.S. why do audio guys always overcomplicate things, thinking it will sound better that way😂
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You’re dead to me. 
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I died a long time ago😂
About the time you started using self-tappers by any chance?
No, forgot the one handed electrician rule.
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That sounds like the beginning of a terrible joke.
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I love how this comes from the person who first suggested to use self tappers 
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I missed that!
<2 faced emoji>