From the measurements so far it seems perfectly reasonable 
The full range is dead, deceased, no more, an ex speaker 
Need to decide what to buy next, it wont be more of these Monacors.
My current setup allows a 2 way design, I’ve got EL34 amp for the higher frequencies and some nasty class A SS amp for the bass. All I’m really looking for is something to play upwards from the 15"s and not massively concerned with super high extension. That’s why this appeals
But really I’m open to anything as long as it lasts longer than these have.
Are you using the MiniDSP for the crossover?
Something really odd is going on, You should not be blowing drivers even OB unless you are applying equalisation in the bass region.
I am, I can only think that I’ve driven them beyond the limits by giving them more power than they are happy with. The ones that have gone make an audible crunch when you manually move them in and out. The last one blew playing direct from the amp no MiniDSP attached.
They are only rated at 8w
The crunch implies the voice coil has got hot & melted the varnish coating it.
DC on the output of the amplifier?
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I see, but even when running a test sweep in REW onto a full-range driver (in Open Baffle) I’ve never had any issues.
Have you tried a really steep filter (say 48dB/Octave) and see if that shows up on the measurement plot? It looks odd that the crossover does not seem to show up on the plots, say on the 15" woofer.
7mV
Maybe, I’ve done so many things. I think the main issue is measuring from 3 metres away needed more SPL than the system could cleanly produce in order to get a good result. If I measure at the drivers though I’m not sure that is adequate for an open baffle design.
I think it is. You can sort out the crossover, flatten the drivers if there are any real nasties, and sort out the main room nodes.
All the stuff about getting the bass ruler flat at the listening position is horseshit IMO. Bass is all about room energy, not flat response. You want the room evenly energised overall, not flat in one position.
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Cool, once I figure out a replacement for the Monocors I’ll measure as you suggest. I did start out that way. Measured at 1 metre at full range height, fullrange, both and woofer, then a true nearfield of the woofer, unfortunately I couldn’t get it all to blend in the Blender spreadsheets. I did end up using the data other than blended woofer to come up with the initial crossover design and time alignment but to be honest the measurement was so all over the place from the full range that it made it all rather difficult.
I’m looking to see if there is any horn that will do 800hz to 10kHz in a pinch and if not then another 8 inch full range unit.
These are winning currently
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-Seas-Prestige-8-inch-Full-Range-Loud-Speaker-Driver/173940444661?hash=item287fa88df5:g:o6QAAOSwQIZdDLEU
Although these popped up
Any old JBL 2" should do that
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http://jamminjersey.com/speakers/jbl/component
I have 2441s, which will do 500Hz up. They’re usually crossed over at 8kHz or so to 2405s. The 2440s look good value there. I always find myself wanting 2482s as they go lower.
If you’re sure you only need 800Hz up then the 1" would be ok, like 2461s, but that is the bottom end of where they will work.
If you’re just putting something above a 15" then I would go 2".
Thanks, if I do go horns then 2" it is. For now I’d look to just put it in as 2 way and deal with what needs dealing with above that at a later date.
I did have the 15s as high as 832hz with 48db slopes and it ‘worked’ i.e. I could live with it.
The good thing is none of this needs to be remotely acceptable from a looks standpoint.
Lab subs await…
I know I don’t need that much bass in here, and that’s coming from a bass player.
This chap’s site has some good info on full range drivers and implementing them into a 3 way system.
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Any views on these cheapos?
I have never tried modern compression drivers. Tbh I imagine they will be fine, although for me the idea of buying quality vintage ones that will never really depreciate made sense. There are many reasons why the vintage ones might be better, although modern standards could mean it’s close.
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