Typical life span is 3 years on a pool pump that’s on every day.
Obviously hot tubs are far more intermittent use (so the motors tend to be built to lower standard). But mech seals fail eventually. Chlorinated water and motors don’t mix. Bye bye pump.
There is no such thing as a well built spa/jacuzzi/pool pump. They are all crap.
Easy to fix though. Like I said, I have done 100s of them.
Servicing motors and pumps is literally my day job. I know what I’m on about.
Wd40 doesn’t belong anywhere near a motor.
It was gt45. Oooops.
I may be asking you for some advice (bugging you) if the new cap doesn’t fix it.
I’m tempted to buy a new pump and fit it myself (or ask a friendly pool pump expert) as it’s not hard… but suspect the peace of mind of the official service network may be more sensible. It’s a tight space to work in and a slip up could lead to all sorts of issues and leaks.
The cap is a good place to start.
A failing cap can cause over heating. Conversely a failing motor can pop a cap. It’s always the first thing to try.
I have a nice mech seal collection going at the moment.
And a drawer full, I keep the weird ones in case we have issues.
This one is about a grand.
Motor run capacitors have a limited life. Prior to retirement, I worked for an Industrial Electrical firm and replaced many failed caps. We could buy either 3,000 or 10,000 hour life ones.
Rule-of-thumb for many caps is that every 10C temp reduction leads to a doubling of the life. A motor seller will sensibly bolt the cap to the motor to save copper cost, avoid strain on the wiring and not have a carelessly installed loose cap slopping about on the floor.
But would it make sense from a thermal point of view to run a longer (nice thick cable) lead and mount the cap somewhere cooler ?
VB
I may slip a cork coaster under it to Heat shield it when I return it. It’s just perched above in a plastic box.
As they cost under a tenner I’d happily buy a good one, but they seem to come as generic unbranded or nothing on a search! I bough Ed’s link and The Ducati one so I have a spare. If it doesn’t work I haven’t lost much.
It’s one of these. The cap is in the top box.
https://spacomponents.co.uk/958-hotspring-pumps
Hope it works. Price of ‘em!!
Yeah, crapola. There is probably a generic replacement around.
Just call around, someone will know what fits.
Or pull it apart and fit a motor and mech seal, generally not worth it on those spa pumps, the motors cost nearly as much as the whole pump.
It lives!!!
Special delivery and a Ducati branded capacitor. Twenty quid.
(1cm too long for the box though!!)
Huge thanks for the help.
Last question. I hope.
The plastic lid on that capacitor box screws down. I’m guessing it’s just to stop it moving and to keep it dry.
If I just place it over the cap and tape it in place as a loose lid I presume that’s ok? It would be less air tight but still better than nothing. Or would it… maybe it needs to be sealed over the longer term?
Or I will search for a smaller capacitor longer term and close it all off again.
Just get a capacitor the right size. Safer all round to have the terminal box lid on properly.
Diagonal. Bit of pressure. Sorted. Just. The motor cooling fins are uncomfortably hot to the touch after a twenty minute spell.
No reference point to suggest that’s usual?
Any idea? Sounds fine.
So many variables, but up to 80c wouldn’t be a surprise. A typical class F insulation motor in theory should be ok to 155c. Obviously when things go wrong they get hot fast.
If you can, measure the current draw of the motor and compare it to the ratings plate on the motor. If it’s higher than the plate rating then the motor probably has shorted turns in its windings and will soon start making smoke. I am assuming you have checked for tight bearings or a partially seized pump?
Nope. I’ll run it now the cap has been replaced and if it’s any issue I’ll stomach the repair cost.
I have a Fluke 179 mm but long since Lost my confidence on where to stick probes in risky areas. More peace of mind it’s not a deeper problem. I am hoping it was just the warm weather and the unusually long run time, and a bad capacitor.
No reason it should be done for. No smoke or warning signals. I could try the probes if I work out where to do it.
It spins without issue/noise/resistance when I turn it manually with a screwdriver.
Ok. You would need a clampmeter anyway to measure the motor current. TBF the pic you posted of the cap looks to me to be a cap that had exceeded its rated hours.
These things come with five year warranties and are supposed to be on all the time (the pumps aren’t - only on during use).
They should be fine as it’s only just hit five years.
Anyway. It’s working. I’m happy. Maybe they are rated to coincide with a bit of a fix and some cash generation after warranty! Thanks for the invaluable advice. Back to watch cack now for the onlookers.
