Looks very nice. I quite fancy trying one of those in my system, I reckon it would drive my speakers well.
What did you do to reduce the input sensitivity? Any sonic benefit to that?
I had on of these - It made me question why I needed a 90WPC beard P100
Back then they were very available and cheap to buy.
Just realised I’ve repeated something I posted back in the summer
Is that the original finish? Remarkable nick if so.
Just 2 resistors as a potential divider across the input… No sonic benefit other than making it more usable with an active pre. No particular sonic cost either. The equivalent really of having a potentiometer on the input at one fixed position.
Yes, could do with a little more work with a toothbrush around the transformer mounting bolts but otherwise the paint is very good for 1962.
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You might want to put those clocks somewhere safe.
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Saw these yesterday. They’re bigger than they look in these pics!
Lopwell is going to be great next year
Is there a way of working out what is the pos and neg from a crossover at the driver end of the wire? I can’t access the crossovers to trace it back 
I’m replacing the Beyma tweeters with 2405s but the Beymas are not labelled with polarity and neither is the wire to them.
The JBLs could well be reversed as well, as that was a JBL thing.
The negative on the speaker terminal probably goes straight to the drive unit, so you can probably just test continuity.
You don’t have these photos elsewhere do you? I was going to show the kiddo who has suddenly developed an interest in guitars.
Odd, I didn’t realise I’d deleted them, must have been a fat finger moment on imgur.
They’re on my phone, can WhatsApp if you pm me a mobile number.
Will give that a try next week.
Took the tweeters apart as they need a good clean and respray but the diaphragms are quite badly warped from over excursion so they may have come from PA speakers or crossed over too low in their last home.
There are plenty of new replacements being made, some very cheap, but I have no idea as to quality. Let me know if you find decent ones!
Have ordered these as the NOS (blue) JBL ones are silly money
I’m not sure that tells you which terminal of the driver to connect it to though. If you look at the crossover for, say, the Murphy CAOW1 here MurphyBlaster Productions you’ll see that the speaker negative terminal does go all the way through to each driver, but it connects to the negative of the woofer and the positive of the tweeter.
On way to do it, if you have a tunable signal generator (could be a PC sound card ?), is to wire up the two drivers (just guess) and feed the speaker with a sine wave at the crossover frequency. If you’ve got it right they will combine constructively and you’ll hear a relatively loud output. If you’ve got one of them wrong then they will combine destructively (out of phase) and the sound should be very much quieter. You are then still faced with the question of which is wrong, but that just boils down to deciding what ‘absolute phase’ (+ or -) you want the whole speaker to have. There are people who say it doesn’t matter, as long as both your speakers have the same absolute phase. There are others who disagree.