It’s a piece of piss, just have a go 
Before you start claim you’re going for the rustic look.
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Well?
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I am currently considering lining paper. Meanwhile I have purchased some foam and filler to get the gaps sorted, which is all that will get done for a few days.
If you’ve done a good job of the plasterboarding,you could just buy a tub of ready mixed gyproc and use that to cover joins and screw heads,then paint.
You’d need to fill deeper holes first though.
Yeah, about that…
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If you’ve ballsed the plasterboard up,I’d suggest something a bit different.
A 50/50 mix of one coat and sand,put it on pretty thick,let it be for 15-20 mins,then with an outside broom,minus handle,brush it horizontally. Then with a longish straight edge,put lines in with the opposite end of an adjustable spanner (large one) put lines in it around 13” apart horizontally,then about 17 “ apart vertically every other one to give you large blocks. Then paint. We did all the hallways in student accommodation over 20 years ago,and it still looks good.
Added bonus of ripping your knuckles on it when pissed.
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Do a course at a local tech college, they dont cost a lot and as a result you’ll be a hundred times better at it than you are now.
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After which you will be using tape
won’t you*… 
*hint: the answer is yes
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If it’s cracks then I recently discovered the benefit of using scrim tape, I had a bedroom ceiling that dropped 14 inches in the centre and was cracked all over as a result
Put in new beams above, used acro props to lift it back to level then filled and sanded the cracks to smooth, took forever but having tried plastering before I knew that was a non starter and there was no way I was dropping the ceiling in our 120 year old house (did that in our last house and never again
Very pleased with myself when it was finished
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Come on then, we need pictures to cheer us up. 
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Don’t the Acros get in the way? 
Optional pole dancing, what’s not to love
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Well I haven’t ballsed up the plasterboard, it’s generally ok, but you asked if it was a good job. Not sure I’d be that generous to myself!
@pmac I already have the tape. I will be using the tape. It’s special plasterboard tape as well.
I also need to address the coving or not coving question, although I reckon laziness will win out here.
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If it isn’t pretty flat across the whole surface and you do decide to get a pro in to skim it then he will grumble all the way through the job about having to use finishing plaster to fill in your dips.
If you are going to put paper directly onto the plasterboard, or even onto fresh plaster for that matter, then it is well worth painting the surface first. If you don’t and, in how ever many years time, you want to strip the paper off you will find that it is impossible to remove. (Even with a paint layer it might be tricky to leave the plasterboard undamaged.)
Because unskimmed plasterboard is soft, the first time anyone dings it with a sharpish object they risk digging a lump out. That can be quite a risk in high traffic areas (did you mention stairs at some point ?).
Do you realise that most new build houses are finished with chamfered plasterboard, the joints and screw holes are taped and filled and then painted, no skimming involved just painted plasterboard?
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That is the way the Yanks have been doing it for at least 60 years.
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Exactly how I did my music room.
3 years later, no cracks and still looking as good as the day I (or rather we) did it.
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I didn’t know that John. Then again, given the grief that some new owners have had with build quality in at least parts of the estates near here, perhaps I shouldn’t be surprised.
I’m sure there’s a range of plasterboards out there now. Maybe there are some that are designed to take the knocks ? All the work we did here was 20-30 years ago and back then Travis Perkins just supplied ‘plasterboard’ (Gyproc IIRC). Only one face had tapered edges (you could get it with no tapers of course) so that had to be the outward facing one.
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