A Decware Zen at 2.4w p/c could fit the bill? it puts only a 65w heat load into the room . I have Graeme’s one in Wantage which ( with his agreement) I could bring back on June 7th for you to try.?
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It feels like the Border Patrol puts out even more heat than the main amp chassis.
It gets so hot, even Monty won’t sit on it! 
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Unless @coco or @Edd9000 know of a reason, I can see none why you should be compelled to use a low-powered amp. No matter how powerful a given amp is, most of them (class A aside) are never going near full output into normal speakers.
To that end I’d heartily recommend something based on the Purifi Eigentakt modules - I got the NAD M23 for much the same reason you are now on the hunt: hot summer room - but ever since it got here, nothing else gets a look in, it’s that bloody good, and I’ve owned a lot of switchmode amps: it’s the only one that fully satisfies.
Anyone suggesting class-A and valves - report yourself to the cockpunching thread…
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Having got the sound exactly where you want it, I would simply move the sub around and change your amp for six months of the year. 
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Yeah but the horns are 110db+ efficient and the M7 has huge gain, so with a big power amp couldn’t one fat fingered volume control accident maybe toast 25 grands worth of compression drivers?
My SIT amp doesn’t run hot.
You’re not having it 
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It could anyway, no matter the amp - gain is your problem.
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I had the first SIT amp Pete made and the SIT monos (from Dave’s estate) which ((I think) came after yours - they both ran pretty damned hot, so yours must be the exception
I know, I bought it from you!
Yes it ran very hot but the one I have now doesn’t.
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How hot they are and how much heat they dissipate are quite different things.
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I had a pair of niles 2150’s bridged for bass duties You would only need one - They are hypex UcD250LP based and have OP limit adjustments and come up very cheap on ebay. My first one was just £60. Very nice indeed
Niles SI-2150 Class D Amplifier Review | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
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Is quieter air con possible?
The portable units in that link are all noisy as fuck because both the compressor and fan are in the same box.
Ours is a “split” unit with the compressor outside and a wall mounted fan AHU ((Air Handling Unit) inside, connected with refrigerant pipework. (Like you get in your hotel room on holiday) - these are generally far quieter. I’ve had a lot of experience of AC installations in work over the years, so was quite picky when choosing the units for the bungo.
The noise generated by the fan unit is pretty much proportional to the amount of work you’re asking it to do. It has a “whisper” mode, that’s fine when listening, but limits the cooling as well as the noise level. To combat a big heat load, it needs to be on “auto” mode, which tends to be much noisier.
Fair doo’s I don’t know anything about these things but it seems a non starter. 
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What about an insulated vented box, that sits over the two, and vents to the outside, like a low sitting vent a hood. High volume, low speed fan for extraction.
Fan could even be on the outside.
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That could be great idea. I think there might still be a little residual noise within the hood/collector over the amps, but if the actual fan doing the work was outside, as you suggest, then it might be a viable solution.
Tru dat.
My Sony based SIT monos are warm to touch but kick out tons of heat into the room.
The Tokin ‘SissySIT’ stereo amp which JohnnyBaby will be delivering to Lopwell for @Stepmotheratomicbomb to try with his Primes, runs hotter to touch but kicks out much less heat.
It’s class A but might be of interest to @Jim all the same because of how it runs.
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My long term plan if I ever get permission to put my stereo in the lounge was to run the wires out and locate the amps in the cellar
Could you pop them in another room and get the drill out?
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