What are your crossover points?
I’m assuming you’re about 1.2k to 8k with the S2 and the Raal above? If so then you probably want the more rapid horn expansion for the 600Hz horn, which will reduce beaming higher up.
So I’m guessing your lower mid range is 250 or 300 to the 1.2k? No small solution there!
Are you sure you don’t just want to get a whole MEH thing to shove with the Labs? Like one of those 80s mini systems!
Well the second one is finally completed. My speakers now look like this:
Now listening, they sound great (tbh they did before, but hey). I’ll measure them when I have recovered from 2 months without music!
Now you just need to do the bass horn.. 
They will look good once you’ve got around to painting the square horn white.
I know….all in good time……they’ve only been like that for 16 years 
I might print a round-to-square transition for the throat of the mid bass, so they’re not finished yet.
Also I know that I won’t ever bother to do this, as it won’t make a scrap of difference.
Therefore I will never paint them.
what xover are you using Adam? Nadja?
I’ve been playing with this recently; I stopped when I decided to print new horns as I will need to remeasure.
Basically I’m using rePhase to generate the XO, and JRiver to run the convolver. There’s a post here by the guy who wrote rePhase:
I use the “reject low” crossover. It’s an asymmetric XO that sums flat. The idea is that my horn-loaded won’t like being played low, but should be relatively well behaved higher up. So this seemed kinda perfect for a system like mine.
So I now have a new 3d printer - a Bambu Labs P1S. Worth the £479?
Bambu is very different in philosophy from Ender (and the likes of Prusa) in how they approach printers. It’s very much a complete integrated system; it’s Apple versus a hobbyist, tinkering system. After saving the model in Fusion it’s about 3 clicks to getting a completed print. Will take some getting used to.
