As that stands now what is doing what? Which speakers are running, crossover points etc?
15s to 350hz, 24db LR
Horns from 350hz
I’ve got shelf filters at either end
10hz, -16db, 0.8Q that’s there just to save some effort
12.2khz, -16db, 0.8Q
With the horns further apart I like it less. The stereo becomes distracting and I’m aware of there being a left and right. Will play a bit more. Next step is to build nicer baffles for the 15s. 18mm x 606mm x 1220mm ply, with no wings and decent braced legs. Will need to buy a router though.
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Have you tried a shallower slope?
Briefly, but at that point I’d cooked my ears and had to stop, will try again in a bit. Observations from today, it is way nicer to listen to from further away. The extra 1.5-2 metres from listening chair to office chair makes a big difference. Also The higher I am the better, where standing up is a considerable difference. I’m guessing it’s to do with on axis vs off axis in both planes.
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Dunno how I got a decent measurement that time because subsequent attempts after changing some DSP settings have resulted in the silly upward rising curve again. Need to start eliminating parts of the chain.
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I thought, even to my uneducated eye that looked more normal!
This graph is interesting, I changed nothing in between measurements other than moving the mic slightly between the red one and the green one. Hard to believe it is anything but a reduction in output from the woofer amp. Tested with a temp gun hottest part on the heatsink is 46c (hottest valve temp is 76c on the other amp). No part of the woofer is over 25c
Second minidsp arriving today. Thinking about trying a cheeky offer on this
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They wanted £150 and it weighs about 5 metric shit tonnes so postage would be a lot. I passed.
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Ideally you want volume controls on each channel, or stereo channel. That way you can trim the levels to match driver sensitivity - so the least sensitive driver will probably be at full volume, the more sensitive ones attenuated. This means the digital crossover is running at full volume, so you don’t lose resolution or increase noise.
A Rotel RB976 is a good choice (apparently the Mk II is worth getting). I have one, and also a Restek Sextant, both six channel.
I have a 12 channel Audio Access that you could have for £80 if you’re interested. Could bring to Jim’s on Saturday for onward taxiing. Only 30wpc, but can bridge some to get 2x60 plus 8x30. Hardly used, boxed.
Right, that makes sense. I’m using integrated amps at the moment and have used the volume knobs to set them quickly but then set the per channel attenuation in minidsp thinking it was a neater solution (it is but might not sound as good).
I’ll keep looking for an amp
Sounds like a plan, who is going to Jim’s from Kent?
answered my own question, Ritchie would you mind bunging it in the Subaru?
I’m not sure if I’m going now, currently negotiating. 
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It’s possible that the mini DSP has a post-crossover analogue volume control, which should be fine. The Najda does, I think.
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OK, the amp (in original box and marked 31kg) is in the car. Bent the sack barrow getting it down the steps…
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No idea how I’ve going to get it up my rickety spiral staircase hahaha
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Carefully! (or leave the amp at the bottom and run cables up!) 
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Place it on the first step and upstairs may simply come down to meet it.
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