DIY Audio General - stuff you're making, tips, advice sought, etc

Friend of mine just sent me these photos:

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WTF?!!

I guess those cases kind of lend themselves to that

Looks great :+1:

Also…

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Indeed, only a complete idiot would have all that shite on the rack :grinning:

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Mini XLRs are horrible. That is all.

(unconnected to above)

I’m getting some Tannoy Eaton’s in a couple of weeks, idle googling has thrown up R-GRF’s. I could probably make the cabs, is the effort worth it, or would a cross-over rebuild/refurb be better?

As usual, I’ve never even heard Tannoys at length, just something on the list of must try at some point, and I’ve a small room…:man_facepalming:

Make me some bigger cabs for my Cheviots and I’ll let you know :wink:

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Rectangular GRF cabs are mostly used with 15" drivers.
Vintage Eatons came with 12" HPD 295 A’s. I’m not sure what the T&S parameters are for these but I’d start there if looking to re-house them.
I’ve got a (Now tatty pair) of Speedy Steve rectangular GRF’s that could be adapted to 12" with a bit of baffle faffage.

Google threw up some interesting discussions on the Wam, 9 years ago though.
Eaton’s are 10" HPD’s, I’ve seen a few pics of Steve’s narrow GRF cab’s and they’d fit my space, but it’d be an outside build in the summer.

Didn’t bob c have some grf 12” at Scalford?

Never seen 10” grfs

Steve did the fist narrows for me, I’ve still got them if you fancy a play - I’m not too sure about 10" in them though. A similar scaled down design is the Tannoy Corenetta enclosure which was designed for 10" in Japan (They also did a corner version which I would guess, having had the corner GRF and rectangular GRF’s, would be better.

Spot the difference in the Corenetta and GRF rectangulars…

image

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Thanks for the offer, I’ll see if I like the std ones and proceed from there.
If there’s any GRF’s in the Midlands it may make decisions easier :thinking:

I found a plan on TNT Audio for 10” cabs, I’ll post it when I’m home.

Next shenanigans are crossovers, anyone used the EBay seller?

I would say find pick the settings you like from the auto formers and just build a set of fixed crossovers at those values. I had mine rebuilt like for like and I reckon they sound pretty good. You can spend a mint on foo, outboard crossovers but if you don’t like the overall sound of the drivers and cabs it’ll be a waste of money

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I appear to have just ordered a pair of Sowter 1367 preamp transformers…

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Latest addition is two bass traps - Insulation thickness 600 x 600 x 470 deep on wheels of course - They seem quite effective from 200hz down to 50Hz -Quite large though.

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Stage 1 of construction.

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One of the more impressive aspects of the Nobsound M77 kit was the switching of its inputs via relays. It works really well. Where is this board from? Also which valve have you chosen for the o/p stage? 6SN7?

It is the World Designs board as used in the Pre 3 kit.

Yup. Don’t have any yet, so the plan is to get a cheap burner to deal with the initial chance of explosions through idiocy testing stage and then get something nice once it is definitely working properly.

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Can anybody recommend some nice capacitors (10uF) for a PassDIY B1 buffer pre?