Pah tonearms are so last year 
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Any opinions on Fidelity Research FR-54?
Buy the Hadcock on pfm?
You change your sodding turntables more often than I change my absorbent pads - have you ever thought of actually just fucking keeping some of the thousands of TT-related lumps-of-stuff you keep buying?
I’m keeping the 401… probably 
Yes, it does look nice but I’ve had about 6 Hadcocks.
I have an Fr-64s or a Korf TA-SF9
Hi, thanks how much are we leaving at? 
Thanks Chris but it’s a bit above my budget.
Did you get the power supply sorted in the end ?
Hi, yes I managed to get an Air Link one in the end.
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unfortunately they are both more than the Alphason
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This for a bit less?
Nice arms which can be superb when Phonomac’d
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So after building the onkens in a rush I’ve always had to put a -3db or there about shelf to drop the top end. Not usually an issue using Audirvāna, but I do fancy getting my turntable set up.
I’ve drawn the below crossover over out in vituixcad and from what I can see changing r5 from 10 ohm down to 6.2 ohm drops the predicted response down about 2.7db.
Does this sound about right? I thought I would have to change the values of two resistors to keep the impedance the same but it didn’t seem to change just altering r5
Spent the last couple of days refreshing the psu of my SP10 mk2. Having been fine with me for 20+ years, I left it running for an hour & came back to find it spinning at 80 rpm or more. Turned off & then on & it kept going there. I suspected aged electronic components within the motor but checked the 3 voltages coming from the psu and found the 5v supply (logic circuits) at about 3v, the 32.5v supply that runs the motor at 20v and only the 140v strobe supply running as it should.
The psu has two circuit boards with the lower one carrying the 3 regulated supplies. It’s recommended to replace the diodes (takes 12) and all the electrolytics while checking for dry joints & cleaning up the solder side of the pcb.
Anyhow, replacing all the above had all the regulated supplies being adjustable to the desired voltages and staying locked to them so well worth the effort. The motor now runs perfectly and the deck runs as it should. A relief, I thought it’d be a fault within the motor.
But it’s made me think I do need to go in & replace all the old electrolytics in the deck’s internal electronics and clean up & re-set that. Fortunately there’s plenty of online guidance so I need to get an order in for those parts.
I’ll put a pic up of the psu internals later.
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I got this SP10 in about 2004. It was ex-BBC but had been put back to domestic spec by removal of the additional box the BBC added to allow pitch control. It appeared that someone had already been in it to change a couple of the caps but I did them all anyway.
The parts that came out. NB the twin diode ‘packs’ of two polarities indicated by green or black colour.
Inside the SH-10 E
Lower board (new caps & diodes fitted)
Adjustment trimmers for 5v & 32.5v
Strobe supply output
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Couldn’t resist - I have picked up an other little speaker project today by way of a GR research Serenity Super Seven kit of bits. They have a pair servo controlled Open Baffle bass drivers per channel
plus four large plannars for mid and a little tweeter. More fun times ahead.
Probably be a few weeks before I can sort it out
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