For those who don’t know, the 288s drop off markedly about 6khz (perfect for the older enthusiasts) so a bit of initial cobbling of the YL tweeter and it’s immediately a lot more balanced. In the ball park but lots of faff and fuckery to do it properly.
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Not my work but a part finished valve amplifier of some sort. I guess at this point of knowing nothing about it the best thing is to just scavenge the parts from it and bin the rest?
It’s obviously already been pilfered for OP tx and some caps etc. How many valves do you need in an amp? I quite like the chassis though.
You’re welcome to the chassis if you want it.
It’s a very nice looking choke.
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Probably the only thing worth saving.
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Replica Klipsch belle cabinets are coming together slowly. Obviously still some edges need lipping etc but can’t wait to see how the fumed oak goes once some finish is applied to it.
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Quick lash up crossover for Troels Ellam Flex speakers. His crossover seemed rather dull, this more conventional circuit was from Paul Coupe, who did some work for the chap I bought drive units from.
Sound good enough to remake properly, and do the other one.
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Today’s fun: a crackle on the left channel that seems to kick in about 40 mins after turn on. Not the valves (swapsies showed that) so to my mind the next likely candidate is quite possibly one of the grid stoppers.
Which may be fun when I use these and the stoppers are on the underside…
For a while I’ve been meaning to put some Altec 4722 Mic transformers I had into a functioning chassis with switches to change the loading & offer different earth options. (for MC use)
I’ve had a little die cast Hammond chassis waiting around forever. Actually if I do it again (may have to for some similar DuKane 3A25 units) I’ll opt for a slightly larger chassis to give a little more space. This one is a bit cramped.
Holes made
Sockets & Switches mounted
Wiring up. These transformers have a pair of primary windings which can, with the aid of the red switches, be connected in parallel to present a lower (37.5 Ohm) or in series for a higher (150 Ohm) load to the cartridge. These impedances equate to ratios of either 1:36 or 1:18.
All done & sounding good.
There’s actually an ebay seller in the US who sells chassis like this built up for about £150 (without the transformers) but transformers like the Altecs have got spendy in the last few years so you’d be factoring that in if you were going to buy a sut like this.
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Tis early days on a side quest. I have ben thinking about the idea of vinyl replay.
First thought was to buy a second hand deck one of my favs from the past - Then Edd reminded me that a full bass and an idler wheel design don’t work so well together.
I do already have a platter and some magnets and an incoming rega bag of parts.
And I found a 3d printed arm online.
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The Donor Rega deck arrived all good -
Magnet ring reprinted - tighter fit with magnets and larger outer dia of ring - Now need to be brave and fit the rings. Still pondering about what arm buy or make and somewhat worried that the magnets worst case 50mm away will cause system hum
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I think you need a nice air bearing arm for that, for all the decoupling.
Yes deffo something novel would be nice I had been thinking either a Uni pivot or an Air bearing arm. In the short term I might perhaps find a cheap arm or make something similar to that NAD flat arm to get me started
If anyone has a cheap starter arm so I can check out the bearing and platter quality please ping me
I have been researching online for DIY arms and found a nice design by Frank Schroeder.
Held together by magnets and fishing wire - First test a mock up to check stability.
Surprisingly stable
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similar to clearaudio but the magnet is above and wire below on theirs
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do you set the anti-skate by twisting the wire?
That does work - Now need to sort out the best way of wiring it up
the challenge at ETF this Nov is build your own tonearm
just sayin 
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