Spray it like you mean it
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Good-looking things those 
People who build toy train layouts always use cork - puzzled me, but while not as good as son-of-a-bitumen, it’s still surprisingly effective, and is way less heavy. I’d guess if the inherent resonance of a waveguide is critical to the final sound, it could potentially tune overall tonality in a pleasing way.
Of course we’ll never fucking know, ‘cos ol’ donkey-bollocks never posts a word about how his stuff actually sounds… 
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The impending bake off at his residence will enlighten all those who wish to know, fo sho.
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So it’s all round to yours - AGAIN!? 
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Except for, nobody gives a flying fuck about how my, shall we say “wallet friendly” kit sounds. Nothing out of the ordinary to hear here, as it were.
Bakeoffs ceased being about hifi ca. 2007.
Coffee, watches, baked goods, dogs, shoes, &c, &c - all fair game
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Meh.
Better than yours, worse than Jim’s
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looks interesting
some slow progress on the next project of recreating a pair of Klipsch belles.
Panels are veneered and cut for the pair of top sections. Will do these first before moving onto the bass cabinets.
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New SP10 Mk2 power supply, still to be hooked up to deck. This has to provide 5V, 32.5V and 140V*. The 140V is for the original strobe lamp which will eventually be replaced with low voltage LEDs so I’ve incorporated a switch allowing that output to be turned off. Be interesting to see whether the modern regulator implementations are any better than the original circuits Technics used in the stock SH-10E power supply.
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Did you put it together yourself?
Yes, although others have done similar on Technics FB pages.
The next stage will be to re-do the internal electronics in the deck itself. New caps, remaking joints, maybe an Led based rather than neon strobe lamp.
I see Lee at Acoustand is offering a replacement bearing so that might be interesting as well. I’ve got 2 of these so may leave one alone & take the other one as far as it’ll go.
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AB testing incoming ?
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So having reworked/remade/checked the cascode stage caps on the lower resistors, the LCR network, putting a different 6SL7 in the second gain stage and swapping in red LED bias for that (to take out any cathode bypass cap effect) and then poking every connection with a multimeter to make sure the connections/resistances were what they should be it turns out that the problem was actually the final outout cap. ClarityCap PUR have stranded leadouts and it appears that general waggling during making/fiddling had broken the leads sufficiently to affect the sound.
Gnah. And then a slight strip back and resolder.
And in answer to the next obvious interjection, 2.2uF Duelunds do not exactly leave a light dent in the finances…
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I love the overkill of that, but (humour me, I’ve had inordinate amounts of sun and gin this afty), those two toroidals kissing seems a mite egregious. Fields are well contained in good ones, but seems suboptimal…?
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That may well be the case. I was also thinking of putting the smaller one on top of the other & sharing the bolt. Not sure if that’d be better from a coupling/interference perspective.
I’ve got to make another one of these for someone now I know it all works. I may try putting them as far apart as I can & fitting the other stuff around them. I don’t really want to go any larger on the enclosure. (215x308x80 from doukmall).
EDIT: Maybe mount the smaller one upright on an L shaped bracket
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Don’t need a lot of space, 4" should be plenty, 2" would probably suffice.