3D printer faff 
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Have one. I’m just a bit rubbish at cam. Or just as I think I have it right the machine does something stupid and I have to fix it.
I use some custom made ClarityCaps in the PSU, I use Duelund for coupling caps, but I don’t use 10uF, they would be huge, and v v costly 
If you want British, try ClarityCap MR
Check out the http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
I have found his comments are generally about right
Cheers for the further vote for ClarityCap, I was going to post the same review link but didn’t fancy the flak.
Interesting read.
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Not sure if a Tung-Sol reissue counts as a cheap burner, but whatever. Actually, compared to an Osram currently on ebay it probably does.
Current progress with all wiring including the all important blue LED. Just need to hack a bracket for the input selector.
a) why can’t Khozmo connect the two out terminals for each side? Caused some idiocy while I worked that one out.
b) Anyone spot the obvious and difficult to correct mistake?
Transformers close and co-axial ?
VB
He said obvious…probably correct though as it is the diy thread.
A non blue LED😱?
Is it mono?
There is that, although sorting that might make what I was thinking a bit more possible.
Might as well be if the trafo crosstalk from the above is bad.
I may be a ham fisted hacker when it comes to building stuff but I do have standards…
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Is it a ‘something fouling something else’ problem ? Transformer clamp brackets fouling the case side, or that tilted cap at bottom left fouling the front panel ?
It’s very quick to check if there’s a cross-talk problem. Load both transformers then run a signal through one channel and measure how much gets into the other one. Try it at a few different frequencies. If you’re running anywhere near core saturation (you shouldn’t be in an audio transformer, of course, but it can be a real issue with flux leakage out of hard-working mains transformers) then it’s worth doing the test at high signal levels.
VB
Nope, everything sort of fits with the cap as it is.
Having rotated one of the trafos, I have also sorted the initial issue as well if that is a clue.
Well the wires on the rear panel sockets (XLRs ?) have swapped colours.
VB
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That would be the one. Slight case of crosstalk at 0dB with how it was previously…
Which relay input switching board is it?
This.
Well, the important stuff works.
Sound is definitely a step up on the Pre 3 as well, although it has quite a bit less gain (not an issue with vinyl as the phono stage has huge amounts).
And after all of the faffing about, I got the output leads the wrong way round…
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Scented candles?