Yesterday was a visit to the Cockburn’s cellats for a tour and tasting. Fantastic place, largest cellars in Gaia, with assume of the wooden vats at 100’000 litres, some 10 million litres held in total! Of that, only one 5000l vat of white colheita, the price the guide wouldn’t say, but a taste would cost hundreds! In the 80s, during a Fiesta, one of those candle balloons landed on the roof and the ensuing fire destroyed a third of the cellar. It remains Portugals single largest insurance payment.
So Much i could say about the Port out here, but that’s better in person. Most importantly they had the 2011 and 2017 vintages for sale.
They are the only house to still retain coopers this steamets was last used in the 80s.
Had a fantastic seafood lunch with Miriam yesterday at Tabaerna Sao Pedro, on the Gaia side of the Douro where the fish are landed, towards the mouth of the river. Evening was out as heavy rain and huge thunderstorms predicted… both arrived!
The Taberna is a local cafe/bistro style, fish cooked over hot coals on the pavement outside. From Sardines to Turbot, with much inbetween. A skewer of squid and shrimp, Perch and Cod, all served with potatoes and dressings. Good selection of wines, great company and less than 85 Euros. Mainly locals eating there, not surprised, I’d be in there every week if i could.
Long drive up through Portugal and Spain and into France, just over the border at North end of Pyranees. Bit of Landy maintenance and this mahoosive 4 wheeled gin palace shows up, there’s always one
Off up toward Bordeaux next, staying half way between there and that rather large sand dune.
Might have to go for a drive into some of the smaller towns, find a wine shop that has some " petite châteaux " for sale. Just about afford a bottle or 2 of Premiete grand cru classe B from a known châteaux, the Colheita ( 1967, bottled 2023) from Portugal cleared a chunk of the wine budget.
I don’t. Good suggestion. But… The new iPhone has a great zoom lense. I’m not going to stress about photos as I rarely ever look at the pics from holidays. Memories do me fine! It would be a rabbit hole if I ever picked up that sort of kit! If they hire them I might reconsider
Good binos then
I hadn’t thought of hiring a camera or binoculars until @pmac mentioned it, but I expect there is a good market for it in safari areas.
We were there almost exactly 24 years to the day ago, so this is probably a bit out of date, but then again, probably not…
Lots of tourist trap market stops on the way out there from Jo’burg if you’re bussing it. Everything is kind of overpriced for there, but still cheap for us, so you can buy a shit ton of soapstone carvings and stuff if that’s your thing.
Eat on the platform at the old railway station at least one night, you’ll see some incredible moths and beetles flying around, which kind of freaks you out at first, cos there’s some seriously big insects flitting about, but they’re not really interested in you. Food is ok at best, and includes some fairly exotic meats (for Europeans) if you’re interested, but the experience is fantastic. Cocktails in the railway carriage were decent.
The safari drivers are all in radio contact and let each other know when they see any of the big five, expect to have a bit of a rally experience if there’s news of a leopard.
It can get busy, some of the tracks are a bit like the M25 sometimes, especially if they’re all chasing a sighting.
Give your driver a good tip, they work their arses off.
We stayed in a rondavel and took those spiral anti mosquito burner thingies but they sprayed in there every day anyway so they were probably surplus to requirements.
We saw some amazing electrical storms across the veld from the railway station, but don’t think we actually got caught in any downpours.
We toured SA on our honeymoon and stayed at Singita Ebony Lodge, 25y ago. Easily the most memorable of our stops. The early morning safaris are very cold so definitely wrap up.
Asked a few mates who live in SA. I know it’s stating the obvious, but the one thing they all emphatically said was “Don’t get out of the fucking jeep.” I’m guessing despite it seeming blindingly obvious, it’s something that some people don’t realise.
Keep well hydrated - it gets really hot and humid, and so you’ll still sweat bucket loads. Otherwise that first beer of the evening will knock you for six.
Also, keep everything in bags / containers while on safari, otherwise the monkeys will definitely steal it.
