So it is, I was looking for a 2402 baby arse. Pointless anyway.
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Hey, that’s unfair, I can hear them from about a foot away! 
Which drivers do you have in the 4 way horns below the Raals and what crossover frequencies are you using?
I am thinking my next move is to replace the OB 18" with 12" on a straight horn like yours then add a 1" from 10kHz up.
Not sure I would bother with the extra tweeters. Would probably change the active sub for tapped horns before adding a separate tweeter above a 1" compression driver.
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1/2 size Lab subs crossed at 90hz 6th order BS >
15" Eminence in an exponential horn crossed at 300 hz 6th order LR >
Line Magnetic 555 in a 160 hz LeCleach (Azurahorn) crossed at 1500hz 2nd order LR >
Vitavox S2 in a 600hz LeCleach (Azurahorn) which is left open at the top end.
The Raal is crossed in at 11000 hz 1st order.
It’s funny, even though my hearing is hopeless above 10k, I can tell if something is off. I have a dodgy connection on the left one and can hear if it’s disconnected, even though I probably couldn’t hear much of them if they were playing on their own.
I have often thought of getting tapped horns for super low bass, to go below the Labs (maybe one large one with an 18" driver). I’ve heard tapped horns and I’m not sure they are so good higher up, where you’d want to cross them to your mid-bass. I wouldn’t change my Labs for tapped.
There are improvements I could make to mine. My mid - bass horns would benefit from cladding in something to kill any resonance and I expect I may have been better with a 12 in there. I went 15 because where the system was originally the horn with a twelve modelled too long which would have been awkward with the stairwell to our basement. @coco 's 16A system has fabulous bass, there is definitely something in a huge midrange horn and compression driver!
I think the biggest area for improvement would be mid-bass. The 18" is crossed at 40 Hz and 420 Hz, where it crosses to the Axi2050 which runs open up top. I am happy with the 18" to be honest but would rather just take it up to 150 or 200 Hz and then run the Axi from between 400 or 500 all the way up. Might add a Viawave 145 from 10 kHz at a later date but I think a 10" or 12" on an exponential horn between 150 and 400 or 500 will give the biggest gains as it currently stands.
When restrictions allow you are welcome to have a listen here if it’ll help firm up your ideas. 
Very kind of you to offer but it could take a bit of planning to travel all the way from Newcastle 
Sitting listening to Fink live album at present wondering how it could actually be improved. Some second opinions would probably be good when restrictions permit as you say. There is something very right about one driver covering the region 400 Hz on up.
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Fucking fan is noisy now. I’ve been prodding it to stop the row for a week and now prodding doesn’t work. 
@AmDismal can you recommend a replacement?
Is it the case fan or the CPU one?
Case fan is probably a 12cm one, just get a quiet one on eBay or Amazon. Most are almost silent now as long as you don’t get a “gaming” one.
Top one at the back, case fan, right?
Yeah
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OK, so the new fan has a different connector, is there a work around/hack?
The one on the left is the old. Right is new.
You might be able to connect it to the motherboard if there’s a fan header - basically three pins sticking up and normally say “fan” next to them. That’s the normal connector for fans. The left one is a Molex connector designed to plug into a power supply directly in case there aren’t enough fan headers on the motherboard.
Are you sure the original fan isn’t plugged in via a Molex adapter? You can buy adapters from the standard 3 pin small fan connector to Molex as well.
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I can’t see any other “fan header” except the one I’m pointing at, there is a big fan/heatsink plugged into it and it’s four pin anyhow. No adapter as far as I can see.
Wher was the original fan plugged in to? PSU Molex connector?
Yes, will need an adapter if no spare header. Surprised as there is usually at least one for a case fan.
Blame Adam. 
He could cut the molex off the old fan and the small 3 pin socket off the new fan and swap them over. Then just plug back into the ps molex. 
