Update: nipping the bolts for the top plate for the idler wheel appears to stop the wheel turning, being slightly loose allows it to run ok from an initial test (speed on old bearings needed to be set 2 marks under centre for 33, now 0.5 to 1). No obvious bearing noise like that, but some further alignment faff may be needed.
Injury count: one blood blister on a thumb.
Not sure if Stronzetto…
Fun fact from MrsKettle the engineer: the type of tool used for this sort of bearings makes a difference to the lubrication performance. Carbide tool: get the pores so works as it should.
Diamond tool: smears the surface, oil drops through the bearing, warranty bill.
Yes Clamping the top plate will stop the idler - It is an alignment issue between top and bottom bush. Regardless of tooling or materials reaming or boring of sintered bronze does affect performance. Ideally you get the alignment correct between top plate and carriage). If this is not possible it would be better to spin the idler pins than start in on the bushes or run the unit with a loose top plate. - Did you re -rivet or tap and screw the bottom bush plate?
What power is it?
Been thinking about getting a pair of these or similar (topping etc) to use as monoblocks strapped to the back of my speakers.
Haven’t got it yet,but one of these;
Thanks, are you going to use it with your main speakers?
Yes just as a temporary thing.
We have a similar one at work which sounds pretty good.
Is the Arion still misbehaving?
It randomly makes awful static noises via the speakers on switching off. Which put me off using it much til I get it serviced
Sounds like it has caught prog…
It’s is the cosmos punishing you for eating mince pies out of season - How could you !
You’ve just gone on my list 
Where does it sit in the range Guy?
Just under the turntable 
