EV carbon cost of manufacture is in large part a function of battery size currently. A PHEV mostly used within its electric range may well have a pretty good lifetime impact compared to a full EV.
Yeah if you can charge every day then the c. 30 mile range on electric can be enough for pootling about town, and you don’t have to worry about how long trips work.
If I could charge at home, it would be great for me, as I do school runs etc. Instead, since I can’t charge at home, a full EV works as I only have to find a public charger once a week.
Cunting car has failed.
It says that battery is on 0%, but it was on 50-odd last night. I reckon it’s the 12V battery, but I have no way to charge it.
It’s now constantly trying to close the locks, and failing.
Oops
Didn’t it come with a free pack of AAAs?
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Got free recovery? They will take you to a charger
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The AA has been. Five seconds plugging their battery in, and it starts, and it’s charging the 12V battery fine. Two minutes later he’s gone, and I have to sit in here for half an hour while it charges.
No clue why it wasn’t charging the 12V properly.
Government adjusted it to UUU
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Because you aren’t charging to 100%? The 12v battery gets topped up after the main battery is full.
The main battery should charge the 12v as you drive, as required. Sometimes we charge it to 100%, sometimes not, but that shouldn’t make a difference.
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Didn’t in the leaf and Zoe, the aux batteries usually only charge when the car is fully charged and still plugged in.
The didn’t realise they had bog standard batteries.
Can an adult explain to me why a vehicle full of batteries cannot have a 12v tap off them to power ancillaries?
I would presume there might be issues with voltage regulation under load with a straight tap (vital to have reliable sensor readings), in any case there will be multiple parallel elements for each voltage step so internal battery connections would be a pig.
That’s good enough for me.
I think that the plan is to move away from them, but you’d have to have your own systems for everything - all the off-the-shelf stuff is set up for 12V. So LEDs, windows, air con etc, it’s all 12V. It’ll take time to move everything across.
Unfortunately for me, the bits that (a) make the car turn on, and (b) charge the 12V battery, are 12V, so it didn’t turn on despite having over 50% charge in the main battery.
I don’t really know what to do apart from get a 12V battery just in case. I could take it to the garage, but I reckon they’ll just suck their teeth at it.
More like wheel sensors for ABS and stability control, airbag and crash sensors etc. Those are the elements where you will need an industry standard decided to enable a change, and we all know how Tesla is with them…
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one of these?
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/jump-starters/gb70-2000a-noco-jump-starter-721906.html?cm_mmc=Google+PLA--Motoring%3EBattery+Maintenance%3EJump+Starters--Motoring%3EBattery+Maintenance%3EJump+Starters--721906&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=62b447cf-331e-4fec-a47a-9985ff72d404&istItemId=wrpxpiait&istBid=t&$ja=tsid:94971%7Ccid:1034356518%7Cagid:51236243736%7Ctid:pla-329023466368%7Ccrid:244691896474%7Cnw:g%7Crnd:3636639811842479603%7Cdvc:c%7Cadp:%7Cmt:%7Cloc:1006717&src=3bpdp&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoJeojaLw6wIVBuntCh2DNgfhEAQYAiABEgI53vD_BwE
Yeah that kind of thing. I might wait and see if it happens again, might be a one-off…
obviously you were never a boy scout…
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