DIY speaker time

It had its moments at Scalford and went from sublime to ok throughout the day.

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This is the kind of thing that makes me buy stuff, for glimpses of brilliance.

I probably do it the wrong way.

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Yeah its a real worry to build them and for them to be shit :laughing:
I’m hoping with modelling and then room measurements I can get them decent.
Did a little more drawing out the cabinet, got a few more braces to add around the horn flares then put in bits, like feet, driver, etc.

Just deciding between adding extras like biscuits and dowels to a few bits, plus which sides to screw from as to what fixings will be visible or not.

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Might be less effort to just use 25mm ply, which won’t need the same bracing, no? You’ll be wanting castors then though!

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Whats the plan for laminating the curved horn parts?

It’s a large diameter curve and it uses 3/8 ply, so I’m hoping I can bend it around a jig then cut the angled slope by hand and the edges on a table saw. Will model a jig up soon :grin:

Almost all the bracing is square stock, so shouldn’t be too much of a pain. Plus I’m probably going to order all this cut to size by CNC as I want a tight fit without gaps.

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I was initially worried by the pricing on their alnico drivers, but the ceramic versions are actually really sensible prices.

Working on a former to laminate the curves up with.

image image

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Been playing with the baffle arrangement, in the original designs the baffle is not full width of the cabinet, so the area behind the horn flare counts towards the internal volume.
But by doing this the horn flare and baffle are not well braced and people seem to try all sorts to stop this vibrating along with low bass. It seems to be two camps:

  • Complicated bracing
  • Increase the baffle full width to allow better bracing and or fill the void behind with sand.

Working out the change in internal volume, a full width baffle would reduce the volume from 360L to 317L
Putting this in to hornresp seems to make little difference, it just changes the hump frequency down by about 2.5Hz
360L:
828 with 316l

317L:
828 with 360l

So will probably go full width baffle for strength, ease of construction and stopping any vibration.

Full width:

Original design:

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More faffing, been adding materials to see what it will look like with different finishes.

Rear:


Front:

Front Blacked:

Front with grill cloth:

Grill cloth over port only:

Quite like it with the front blacked out

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Bottom one for me :+1:

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+1

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2nd one up for me (bit like Hat ManCock)

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Thanks for the input, I’m thinking about playing with black edges too as well. Lots of contemplation and playing around over the next few weeks. But happy with the layout internally, I have got it now so I don’t need to have any externally visible screws except on the rear panel.

I always like the quality of bass that comes from Votts. They’re an artful compromise with manageable size, decent extension and enough of a kick from the front firing horn to maintain interest.

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I really need to get my arse into gear. This thread might help me.

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That’s good to hear :+1:

Just saw this leaflet with the whole bottom covered in fabric, another option maybe.

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Just turn your Snells upside down and cut a hole in the front

image

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