Extension cables

General Chat
41

There might be a reason for that. It might be safety-related.

VB

1 Like
42

You can buy them, but I am concerned about using them for this purpose. They are rated within the spec though.

43

It’s rated for 13A and you’re drawing a max. of 10A. It will be fused at 13A in the plug, same as the cable is rated for, so what’s the issue?

It might be a surprise, but actual experts might well have been involved in the design of such things. :grinning:

1 Like
44

I’m concerned that the continuous current draw may be too high. But maybe I’m just plain wrong - that would be fine, it’s certainly within my skillset and would save me £50 and some effort.

45

Do you really think the thousands of such cables sold every year are regularly failing?

I’m certainly not convince that you can create properly bonded, waterproof connections than are better a properly manufactured cable.

Just don’t buy Chinesium shit that doesn’t actually meet the rated specs and it’ll be fine.

2 Likes
46

All Lengths 13 AMP Weatherproof Mains Outdoor Extension Lead IP65 Orange 2 Socket (25m) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07B5TDS9X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x2lMDbAF3QRKV

Adequate?

47

It’s what I’d do.

48

So you could have just said to do option one, right at the start.

To be fair, that would have been much less fun, although a lot less stupid.

49

I could have, yes.

2 Likes
50

If the lead is well made then to be honest the biggest problem is likely not to be the cable itself but the BS1363 (what we traditionally call ‘13A’) plug and socket. Your cable will be outdoors and not coiled up, so heat shouldn’t be a problem. There will be some voltage drop, but you say you’re OK with that. More sophisticated power devices compensate for low voltage by drawing slightly more current, but we’re talking 2-3% so that’s unlikely to be the real issue. The problem is the BS1362 fuse in the plug and the metalwork used to grip it. The fuse rating (13A) is NOT its blowing current - they will take 20A for a very long time. The rating, bizarrely, is the current at which the wire in the fuse is dissipating 1W due to its resistance. BS1363 plugs are supposed to be designed to withstand this dissipation indefinitely. But manufacturers cut the design so fine that it can be touch and go. Except I wouldn’t recommend touching it. The brass live pin on a BS1363 plug that’s been passing 13A for any length of time may well be too hot, by conduction from the fuse, to touch. The plug’s internal metalwork may be a good deal hotter than that. People who use 2.5mm2 cable professionally are usually interested in relatively high currents. The ubiquitous blue 16A connectors manufactured to IEC 60309 are much better for this. You can easily buy 25m long 2.5mm2 extensions but they will all come with the blue 16A connectors. They are, of course, unfused though, which is a bit of a challenge for UK domestic ring-main circuits.

VB

1 Like
51

FFs. 50 posts about a wire, a fucking mains wire at that…this place is going right down the shit…:unamused:

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52

I use a 25m extension lead with a wind up circular tidy included that type will be much much easier to real back in. That orange wrap thing shown earlier with 25m will be a royal pain to keep tidy.

53

Not IP67 or high enough equivalent rating, and leaving it coiled while charging would be a big no.

54

An RCD / 13A breaker probably a good idea, too.

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55

You’re right, it’s so disappointing we didn’t make 500

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56

51 now. :roll_eyes:

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57

It’s a good point though. This one might be easier to handle.

VonHaus Extension Lead/Splashproof Socket Reel 25m - 2 Sockets For Indoor/Outdoor Use - Thermal Cut Out - Corrosion Resistant With Cover https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07GT5FM6D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iBmMDbA2BGWN4

And an RCD as well.

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58

:rofl::joy::rofl:

59

Has anyone posted the obligatory “Nordost Odin FTW”?

1 Like
60

I resisted