Would you not want the tweeter isolated form the other drivers and would you only want the ports at the bottom?
Ports at the bottom so I can put them closer to the rear walls, hence the longer legs to lift the cabinet up. Would having the waveguide & compression driver in the cabinet really make any difference?
I have no idea 
Just interested. I guess if youāre making it yourself you could do it in such a way you could play around - removable baffles inside, maybe other port positions (side ports?) etc so you can try things out.
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Yeah, this was the initial thinking around the modular plan first. Once Iāve finished refurbing the drivers in the next two weeks, Iāll crack on with some sort of test cabinet for one driver and get some more in depth measurements!
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Have you simulates the driver in Winisd? That will tell you everything you need to know.
Donāt really understand why it doesnāt go low enough but I didnāt look at the ts very hard.
Nice,look like a mix of heco directs and vintage tannoys
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Yep, using WinISD and UniBox. The Volts have a measured Qts of around 0.25 so in a sealed cabinet, f3 is around 120Hz. Ported brings that down to around 65Hz.
A low Qts should make them suitable for a horn system. Just sayingā¦
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I know but Iām an idiot who canāt make hornresp work. Maybe once Iāve moved in and worked out exactly how much space I haveā¦
120hz would be fine with the right sub and careful positioning.
It definitely leans to a ported configuration though.
Or sealed with a boat load of power and eq. With a pair of these each side, and 8mm xmax, they hit excursion at 122dB and 250w I thinkā¦plenty of scope there.
Just asking for a ton of distortion there.
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Thatās why I went for ported for the moment and see how I get on.
Bit of an update, plan has changed somewhatā¦
Thanks to Des (@HapHazzard) I now have a pair of Hypex Fusion FA123 plate amps which means I can go full 3-way. This has changed my approach and now I will start off with the following idea and see how I get on. The MiniDSP 2x4HD is now being used as a DSP/Preamp for the TV system with some KEF 3001SE and the Castle Subwoofer for a basic Home Theatre system.
Tweeter - Scanspeak Illuminator D2004/602000 (Picked up for a great price on eBay)
Midrange - Scanspeak Discovery 10F/8414 (from my Frugelhorn speakers)
Bass - 2x Volt BM2500.4 16-Ohms
Iām thinking of crossover points around 400Hz & 4kHz to start with, the 10F is quite flexible with that and the small frame on both Mid and Tweeter means I can cross over a little higher if required.
Iām thinking of the Mid/Tweeter in a small pod (similar to KEF 105/107 etc) and the two Volt Bass in a ~40 Litre ported cabinet below.
It wonāt be the highest output as the FA123 has 75w/8Ohms (125w/4Ohms) but should get ~92dB/2.83V on the bass section after BSC, but more limited on the Mid/Tweeter as they are lower sensitivity.
I still have the Seos 12 and Sica 1" HFU Horn/CD unit so if I need a higher output, I just need to find a midrange with a higher sensitivity (PHL 1220/Audax PR170 for example) to go with say a BMS 4524 or similar, if I donāt need the low crossover point.
Now Iām actually home for more than a day or so since moving house (August has been very busy for us) I can crack on with the refurb on the rest of the Volt Bass drivers.
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Actually made a start. Using some leftover bits of 21mm plywood I had for the Mid/Tweeter box. Iām putting these together for use as a mini monitor style so I can use elsewhere when the project evolves, Iāve also changed the plan to use the pair of Scanspeak 26W bass drivers I have spare, instead of the Volts. The idea behind this is they model really well in a sealed enclosure so this version will be a bit more compact and designed to work near the room boundaries.
Iāll keep the Volts for a longer term project to explore the higher efficiency/horns route.
First up was to refurb my workbench, I got this for free a few years back from an engineering firm closing down, the worktop was dusty and covered in oil residue. A new random orbital sander and 6x 40-grit pads later and itās a bit more useable!
I also got round to spending my Axminster Tools vouchers (long service award at work) on a load of parallel clamps in 3 sizes, a Clifton Plane, Veritas flush saw and marking guage and a Diamond Whetstone.
The clamps were put to good use!
Iāve also bought a router circle jig for the speaker rebates so thatās the plan for weeknights this week!
Plan is to get this little 2-way up and running, active with the Fusion FA123 as a test (using a separate sub) so I can get used to the settings and crossovers while I source the wood for the bass cabinet and start building!
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Which Clifton plane did you get?
No 5 1/2, on back order. The indulgent purchase with the vouchers. Wanted something bigger than my vintage Record no 3 plane inherited from my Grandfather.
I do need a wood vise to go onto the workbench though.
Good choice (imo). I gravitate to my 5-1/2 for more or less all tasks, canāt recall the last time I used my #4.
When we went on the dovetail course, we used a 5 1/2 and it was lovely, and not just on larger bits of wood.
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