Yes, I was thinking of the racist mysogynistic one that I was taught!
Yes, I was taught the same one (I’m guessing) by one of my college teachers.
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Mine was, Bilouxi boys rape our young girls, but violet gives willingly.
I just buy Dales or use a multi meter. Colour blindness ftw.
That’s how I found out about CRI! Cheap LEDs have a low CRI, and it’s hard to tell the colours apart. Getting better bulbs really helps.
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Yep. And why I installed >97 CRI LED GU10s above my workbench.
Not going to help @edd9000, he has bigger problems, like being able to tell traffic lights apart 
Three components on their way to me, two i forgot to order and one is a replacement Ruby, having dropped and then stepped on one of the two i had.
This is still loose fit…
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I used to use 1mm silicon tube to stand the components off the board, that way you can use the tube to set the gap and just fold the wire over underneath and when you are ready to solder not have to fuck about with them.
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As per the higher-wattage resistors, it’s worth standing those diodes well clear of the PCB surface too 
Also, much tho’ it makes soldering easier, avoid bending the legs over on anything (Valentine’s day notwithstanding 
) - just in case you have to get anything back out again due to gremlins/derp-related kerfucktication…
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Do the transistors need some thermal coupling and electrical isolating from the heatsinks?
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Good spot. Pete can advise - but usually - YES! Bit of mica or thermal pad.
I have encountered a circuit where the tab was deliberately connected via the heatsink to the circuit, but think that was a Vreg.
Yes, have been chatting to Bob about that on email. The heat sinks aren’t connected to anything so would actually be fine, but they would have 15V or so on them.
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Depends how much headroom there is in your metal box, as found out.
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lol
Going to need some finer solder and tip for the 3A regs, the pins and tracks are close, probably only a mm or so between tracks.
I use 0.5 or 0.7mm solder normally. Worth investing in a few additional tips - a chonky one to get heat into things where required (e.g. the heatsink mountings) and a fine one for finicky stuff. Just pad out your next RS/Farnell order! Also get a syringe of flux - this can really help when having to reheat, e.g. if you accidentally bridge something.
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The second diode from the bottom, the one you can read 2216 on it, that joint looks dull and grainy. Should be smooth and shiny.